2017 Domaine Hubert Lamy Criots Bâtard-Montrachet Haute Densite

Lamy's sole grand cru, the 2017 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Haut Densité is simply extraordinary, unfurling in the glass with a youthfully reserved but massively complex bouquet of ripe Meyer lemon, mandarin, green apple and pear, complemented by notes of pastry cream, beeswax and iodine. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, searingly concentrated and powerful, amply endowed with chalky structuring dry extract and underpinned by tangy acids, concluding with an immensely long finish. The Criots-Bâtard has the presence of a red wine this year! It will be fascinating to follow its evolution in bottle.