2016 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée XXL

The 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape XXL has only been made previously in the 2007 vintage, and there are around 400 cases of this beauty in 2016. Coming from old vines near Beaucastel, La Crau, and Saumade, which are all rolled stone terroirs, it’s mostly Grenache (there’s 10% Mourvèdre) brought up primarily in demi-muids. This incredible wine is deep ruby/purple-colored with a massive nose of black fruits, scorched earth, graphite, incense, and pepper. Deep, hugely concentrated, pure, fine and yet still elegant, it's a magical, heavenly wine that's going to keep for 3-4 decades. While the style at Janasse has shifted to one of slightly more freshness and elegance since 2007, this is much more in the style of the old days and is guaranteed to make your blood pressure jump about 10 points or more! You’ll be hard pressed to find a better run estate than that of Domaine de Janasse, which has been in the Sabon family since 1967. Today it’s the brother and sister pair of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon at the helm, and they continue to produce a bevy of sensational Côtes du Rhônes and Châteauneuf du Papes from their vines in the northeastern region of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and around the village of Courthézon. While they’ve pulled back on the pedal-to-the-metal style of the early and mid-2000s, their wines today offer more purity, precision, and elegance while still possessing ample hedonistic fireworks. In short, these are brilliant wines that readers need to snatch up.

Only the second vintage of this cuvee ever to be produced (the other is 2007), the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape XXL is about 75% Grenache, with the rest a mix of permitted varieties. It incorporates "a lot" of whole clusters and matured in demi-muid. It was bottled in May but will likely only be released in November, says Christophe Sabon. Classy aromas of crushed stone, pencil shavings and baking spices start it off on a terrific note, while ripe raspberries and stone fruit unfold on the full-bodied palate. Contrary to the implications of its name, this wine boasts incredible finesse, elegance and length and is in fact more impressive for those qualities than its overall size, power and richness. It will certainly open a few eyes. Aug 2018, www.robertparker.com