2005 Château Smith Haut Lafitte***

A gorgeous Grave from this incredible team, the 2005 Château Smith Haut Lafitte is 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, brought up in a mix of new and used oak. More reserved and backward than bottles from my cellar, it has a rich, full-bodied, structured profile as well as classic Graves scorched earth, darker fruits, graphite, tobacco leaf, and subtle chocolate. Blockbuster stuff on the palate, with a stacked mid-palate and sweet tannins, it needs air, or another 4-5 years, to show at its full potential.

A wine that I have been lucky enough to drink several times recently, and it's tasting superb right now. Generous and welcoming, with grilled red peppers, rosemary, toasted sandalwood, cedar, liqourice, espresso, well textured tannins, sage and turmeric spice that freshens the finish and keeps you wanting more. Excellent quality from technical director Fabien Teitgen and owners Florence and Daniel Cathiard.

The 2005 Smith Haut Lafitte packs a serious punch. A blast of wild cherry, smoke, leather, tobacco and mint hits the palate as this powerhouse Pessac-Léognan shows off its personality. Black cherry, mocha, rose petal, spice and chocolate all saturate the palate. This is an especially lush, potent wine shaped by density, concentration and plenty of oak. I would prefer to drink the 2005 sooner rather than later, as it is starting to fray just a bit. (AG)