1996 Domaine Coche-Dury Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseigneres
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This 1996 Puligny-Montrachet Les Ensegnières is pitted against the 1999, and though it is an excellent white Burgundy, it is not in the same class. Powerful and almost feral on the nose, it feels slightly honeyed - maybe a touch of botrytis in the vineyard that year? The palate is not as tensile and steely as the 1999, although I do like the dab of ginger on the grippy finish. Drink soon.
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Neal Martin
Neal Martin
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The 1996 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères is a vintage that I have tasted once before and this bottle is better than the last. It has a compelling bouquet with orange rind, honeysuckle, chalk and yellow flower aromas that stop you in your tracks. So complex, so beautifully focused. The palate has a tangy entry, impressive weight with a hazelnut and orange pith, just a touch of quince towards the persistent finish that displays impressive mineralité . This has aged with real style and panache. Tasted at La Paulée in Beaune.
An excellent 1996 Puligny Montrachet Enseignieres from Coche-Dury that has aged with style. It has a mature but still engaging bouquet with chalk, orange rind, lychee and dandelion aromas that is nicely defined, hints of white peach emerging with time. The palate is very well-balanced, though perhaps not with quite the thrilling level of precision as the ’99. Yet there is impressive weight here with superb mineral tones on the satisfying, persistent finish. This is very fine indeed and I can see no reason why it will not continue to drink well for several more years.
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