2003 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

The 2003 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has an earthy, animally, slightly brettanomyces-affected bouquet, and yet despite its faults, I cannot help falling for its charms. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins considering the vineyard; pleasant raspberry and cranberry fruit segue into a lightly spiced finish of black pepper, leather and sage. It does fade a little rapidly, but it makes a decent effort. Tasted at Sarah Marsh’s 2003/2004 tasting in London.

Pale to mid ruby. Colourless rim. A very slight edge of decay on the nose. Sweet and edgy. Not quite as composed and integrated as the 2003 grands crus from Rousseau and Mugnier in this line-up. Something a tad green about this (whole bunch?) but not to be sniffed at if offered! A note of orange again. (JR)

Sweet and gamey on the nose. Quite a contrast with the magnificent 1999 Dujac. Not refined and a bit too much. Whereas the 1999 smelt of cassis, this 2003 smells of eau de vie de cassis. Most unusual! But then so was the vintage. A bit thick and heavy overall. (JR)