2005 Domaine Jean-Michel Gerin Côte-Rôtie Les Grandes Places

Dark ruby/purple with notes of truffle oil, roasted meat, black fruits, and scorched earth, the 2005 Cote Rotie Les Grandes Places is the pick of the litter. From a vineyard planted on pure schist, which renders a Graves-like earthiness to the wine, this wine is smoky, deep, chewy, rustic, but saved by its beautiful fruit purity. This beauty should hit its prime in 3 years, and drink well for 12-15. Importers: New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 497-8625, and David Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

Deep red. Ripe dark berries and fresh violet on the nose, with complicating notes of Asian spices and minerals. Taut, sharply focused cassis and bitter cherry flavors are underscored and freshened by bright acidity, with firm tannins clamping down on the sappy finish. More reserved than last year's showing, but no less impressive.

Ruby-red. Powerful and deep on the nose, with ripe blackberry, cassis and exotic spice aromas. A strong note of graphite complements deep, sweet dark fruit flavors, with a subtle mint note arriving on the back end. The spicy, deeply fruity finish features excellent length and a late hit of pungent herbs.