2016 Domaine Vincent Girardin Corton-Charlemagne Quintessence Grand Cru

(always made from the same vines in Aloxe-Corton, which are now about 60 years old; at the end of its malolactic fermentation): Pale, bright yellow. Fascinating nose combines yellow peach, citrus fruits, spices, wild herbs and mint. Saline, densely packed and youthfully clenched; closed in on itself in the early going but already displays excellent intensity and mineral thrust. This very rectilinear wine finishes broad and unflagging, with excellent rising length and a touch of floral character. (Girardin's "regular" Corton-Charlemagne, an assemblage of three parcels, had just finished its malo and was in a reduced, rather rusty stage. I will wait to review this wine next year in its finished form.)