2006 Brovia Barolo Garblet Sue

The 2006 Barolo Garblet Sue’ is massively tannic and powerful. As always, it is a taut, sinewy Barolo, but in 2006 the Garblet Sue’ is even more backward than is typically the case. Bright red fruit, smoke, tar, incense and iron are just some of the nuances that come together in this focused, potent Barolo. With air the frame fills out to some extent, but patience is the key. Brovia’s Garblet Sue’ is made from the Bricco Fiasco vineyard, just up the hill from the winery. Anticipated maturity: 2021-2036. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchants, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

This virile yet mid-weight wine is very promising. The 2006 Barolo Garblèt Sue' possesses a deep, penetrating core of bright red fruit, enshrouded by a potent wall of tannins. There is terrific density and richness in the glass, all kept in check by the linear focus that is the hallmark of Barolos from the Bricco Fiasco vineyard. This, too, is from Castiglione Falletto, but like the two preceding wines in this line-up, the Garblèt Sue' speaks with its own distinct voice.

Good bright, deep red. Wild, musky red fruits and menthol on the nose, complicated by licorice, minerals and nutty oak. Sweet and silky on entry, then tight but smooth in the middle. There's a light touch here but no hardness, and lovely intensity and finishing perfume. The tannins coat the front teeth. Very youthful wine-a bit tighter than the Rocche but less clenched than the Villero.