2011 Graham's Stone Terraces Vintage Port

Deep, saturated ruby. Singular nose offers blackberry, huckleberry, licorice, black olive and exotic flowers accented by a piquant note of blood orange. Hugely rich and superripe but with lovely lift and definition to its black fruit, mineral and licorice flavors. Seems thicker and even riper than the "regular" Graham but perhaps a bit less sweet in the early going. Finishes tactile and extremely long, with noteworthy elegance and a surprising light touch. Rich in personality right now, but will it be as complete as the classic Graham in 20 years?

The inaugural The Stone Terraces comes from two 18th century schist stone terraces in Quinta dos Malvedos, one 1.6 hectares and the other 0.6 hectares, whose exposure and soil have made them stand out over the years. Finally, in 2011 they were picked together and fermented in one lagar that yielded just four pipes. It has startling clarity and minerality on the nose, one of those young Ports where the spirit is so pure that it is difficult to distinguish from an unfortified wine! The palate is silky smooth and slightly honeyed on the entry, leading to a very harmonious, svelte, sensual Vintage Port with copious pure blackberry, cassis and mineral notes that build wonderfully towards the finish. This is captivating, though you will have to fight for one of the 250 cases (individually numbered bottles.) Tasted May 2013. Importer: Premium Port Wine; www.premiumport.com

Just 250 cases. They may make it every year! Pricing it way above Graham – ‘£110 a bottle so dirt cheap compared to bordeaux. We've always loved these two little vineyards.’ Picked 21 September and fermented together. Port Arthur faces east and another facing north. Very atypical. Very big and ripe and beefy – sort of Bovril nose. Then sweeter and softer than the Graham vintage on the palate. Not heavy. Minerally and racy. Distinctive. (JR)