1995 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

Displaying candied spices on the nose, the Bienvenue Batard Montrachet possesses a fat, oily, powerful mouth densely packed with intense toasted fruits and minerals. This extremely well-balanced, full-bodied wine should be held for a minimum of 4 years, and enthusiastically consumed over the subsequent decade. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. Ratings with a range of scores in parentheses indicate the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. The wines at the domaine are made by Meursault's Pierre Morey. I was impressed with the relationship he has with Madame Leflaive. The two openly share their thoughts, completely respecting each other's opinions. In most cellars there is an obviously dominant player, but at Domaine Leflaive it is a team effort. The wines spend on average 11 months in oak before being placed in stainless steel tanks for another 7 to 9 months (the Montrachet is never removed from oak). The domaine averaged 25 hectoliters/hectare in 1995 - less than 2 tons of fruit per acre. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel (212) 355-0700.

An extremely fresh anise-infused nose features the classic ripe honeysuckle and subtle spiced citrus aromas that continue onto the very rich, generous and lightly mineral suffused medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate with dry extract on the impressively long finish. This is lovely and displays no botrytis notes and for my taste, this could benefit from another year or two of cellar time and then drink well for at least another decade in this format. Allen Meadows, Burghound , nov. 2008