2016 Emmerich Knoll Riesling Loibner Loibenberg Smaragd

White peach, frangipane and apricot wreathed in iris on the nose set the stage for another succulent, bright, bell-clear and surprisingly buoyant Knoll Smaragd from this vintage. This finishes with infectious juiciness of white peach and lime along with striking transparency to inner-mouth floral perfume as well as crystalline stony, alkaline and saline nuances. A sweet-saline, iodine-tinged savor emerges that is highly reminiscent of rich lobster-shell reduction. And like a number of Knoll Smaragd bottlings of this vintage, it displays a surprising not to mention delightful sense of lift. I’m not going to argue with Emmerich Knoll senior when he opines that this bottling epitomizes “elegance and finesse.”