1988 Ridge Monte Bello

This still has grip and depth to the colour, vibrant ruby red, velvet tannins, touch of iron filings, earth and blood on the opening notes, along with violet and iris flowers, could almost be an aged Syrah in its earthy seduction. It unrolls slowly to show tobacco, bacon, soy, grilled red peppers, truffle, showcasing a hot vintage that benefitted from the cooler climate of the Santa Cruz mountains. Almost entirely new American oak, rest new French oak. Paul Draper winemaker.

The 1988 Monte Bello is a pretty wine that has aged well, but that is also now fully mature. Smoke, leather, licorice, game and herbs are laced with savory inflections from the mostly cold year and a good deal of Cabernet Sauvignon character. I wouldn't push my luck too much with aging, as there is little upside to be gained through further cellaring. (AG)

The 1988 Monte Bello is at its peak today, revealing a rustic bouquet of crème de cassis, cigar ash, leather and medicine cabinet that's marked by a touch of Brettanomyces—like many Bordeaux in this era. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, rich and quite multidimensional, with a generous core and a long, savory, spicy finish. The product of a hot summer, the 1988 was by all accounts somewhat austere in its youth, but its tannins have now melted away to reveal its briary mountain fruit. This was the second vintage of Monte Bello to be matured in entirely new wood, partly as an attempt to control brettanomyces; unfortunately, however, the yeast was able to feed on the oak sugars, making the problem worse. Tasters who don't mind this quality will want to add several points to my score, whereas those who're entirely intolerant of it will probably wish to deduct a few.