2005 Giuseppe Mascarello e Figlio Barbera d'Alba Scudetto

The 2005 Barbera d'Alba Superiore Scudetto lacks the brightness and clarity that informs Mascarello's 2006 Barberas but it compensates for that with a round, soft enveloping core of perfumed fruit. This silky, accessible Barbera is likely to offer its best drinking over the near term. Sweet roses, tar and licorice linger on the close.

The 2005 Barbera d’Alba Superiore Scudetto lacks the brightness and clarity that informs Mascarello’s 2006 Barberas but it compensates for that with a round, soft enveloping core of perfumed fruit. This silky, accessible Barbera is likely to offer its best drinking over the near term. Sweet roses, tar and licorice linger on the close. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2013. Proprietor Mauro Mascarello has turned out two very pretty 2005 Barolos, but did not bottle his Villero as he waited until after the rains to pick the fruit and by that time the quality in the vineyard had been compromised. There is also no Ca d’Morissio in 2005, as that juice was blended into the Monprivato. Although Mascarello is best known for his Barolos, his entry-level wines also merit serious consideration. Although Mascarello’s Barberas aren’t as well-priced as they once were, they are capable of delivering tons of class and elegance. Readers who want to learn more about this iconic Barolo estate may want to check out my recent article on www.erobertparker.com. Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484