2002 Dönnhoff Schlossbockelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Spätlese

Very dense and deeply flavoured. Very exciting. Big and bold. Needs time to unfurl. Almonds this time. (JR)

This Spatlese is extraordinary, hovering in that zone bordering perfection in which wines touch the soul. Medium-bodied and revealing scents reminiscent of sweet scallions, cassis, spices, and fresh herbs, the 2002 Riesling Spatlese Schlossbockelheimer Kupfergrube conquers the taster with ethereal waves of black currants, apples, minerals, baby powder, and pears. Satin-textured, as pure as crystal, and lasting over a minute on the palate, it is a masterpiece to drink with reverence between 2009-2030. All Hail the King of Spatlese! Donnhoff’s line-up of Spatlesen is second to none. Feb 2004, www.robertparker.com

This has an intriguingly spicy but relatively demure nose at the moment. Then it explodes on the palate and really grips, with smoky, spicy phenolics and minerality gyrating around a rich core of pit fruits and citrus. Endless, spicy, minerally, pungent length. When Donnhoff took over this portion of the Kupfergrube - the source of some epic-making TBAs during the mid-20th century heyday of von Plettenberg's tenure there - he felt it was one of the best parcels in the Kupfergrube's 32 acres, primarily on account of its being slightly less prone to drought. But he believes this is the first year when the roots of his young vines have gone deep enough for the resultant wine to truly reflect its great terroir 2 stars.