2016 Tassi Brunello di Montalcino Selezione Franci Riserva

The Tassi 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Franci opens to a robust and powerful presentation with thicker layers of dark fruit, blackberry and tarry spice that are enhanced by cedar, mahogany and dustings of exotic clove or cumin. Compared to the 2015 vintage, this expression pulls back to show a linear and focused presentation. The intensity is still quite apparent, but the wine ultimately manages a more elegant and supple delivery, especially on the palate. That said, I really did love the overstated exuberance of the 2015, a more immediate and forthcoming wine compared to this. The 2016 will show its best results further down the road. Only 3,753 bottles were made.

Maturing mid ruby with narrow orange rim. Cherry and oatmeal on the nose. Sappy, concentrated cherry with polished tannins clinging to the fruit. Long and already accessible. (WS)

The bouquet on the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Franci is deeply rooted in the earth, with notes of underbrush and crushed ashen stone giving way to black currants and savory herbs. It’s far more lifted and delicate in feel than anticipated, presenting a lovely inner sweetness and a pure display of tart woodland berries and hints of sour citrus, all motivated by bright acidity. The grippy tannins come forward through the finale, combining with a residual coating of primary concentration to create a black hole of structural tension. Keep your hands off of the 2016 for at least a few years, as the best is truly yet to come. The Riserva is produced from the Franci cru, fermented in cone-shaped Garbellotto vats and then aged in 10-hectoliter Slavonian oak for 36 months.