2009 J. Rochioli Pinot Noir River Block Vineyard

The 2009 Pinot Noir River Block comes across as rich, frank and straightforward. An initial burst of fruit is followed by subtler notes that develop in the glass. Rose petals, hard candy and white flowers make an appearance with time, but the 2009 really needs another few years to blossom. Right now, the future looks very bright. The River Block is one of the 2009 Pinots that is far more interesting than its 2010 counterpart at this stage. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020. I came away deeply impressed by the wines I tasted with Tom Rochioli. The 2010 Chardonnays are absolutely gorgeous. The cold, late-harvest provides a wonderful balance to the inherent richness that is typically present in the wines. Rochioli is one of the later growers to pick. The 2010 Chardonnays were fermented in barrel. Rochioli stirred the lees every week until January, then once every few weeks until the wines were moved to tank in July. The wines spent three weeks in tank and were bottled in August 2011. The Pinot Noirs are stunning in both 2009 and 2010. As is the case throughout the Sonoma Coast, the 2009s are more consistent across the board, but the best 2010s may very well prove to be superior. For now what is certain is that the 2010 Pinots show a level of verve and focus that is missing from the 2009s. Either way, it’s hard to go wrong with any of these big, exuberant Pinots. Tom Rochioli is a bit of recluse, which means his wines remain known only to a relatively small group of consumers. Prices are very reasonable considering the quality of what is in the bottle. Tel. (707) 433-2305

Bright ruby. Highly expressive aromas of red berry preserves, potpourri, woodsmoke and minerals. Broad and fleshy on entry, gaining vivacity with air and offering intense strawberry and cherry flavors and a deeper note of licorice pastille. The floral quality returns strongly on the finish, which is spicy, precise and extremely persistent. This wine's flamboyant character makes it approachable now, but it will be better with at least another five years in the cellar.