2006 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bourgogne Blanc

The 2006 Bourgogne is strikingly opulent and texturally silken. With a pit fruit and heady floral nose that puts one in mind a bit of Condrieu, its nectarine and persimmon are allied on the palate with low-toned, chalky, carnal, illusive and intriguing flavors. If this were orchestral music, it would be without the violins. As a white Burgundy from Chardonnay, this hauntingly long wine is definitely in a category of its own. While the Comte de Vogue parcel of Chardonnay planed in red marl soil in Musigny has unique status as a Cotes de Nuits Grand Cru white, there is no legal allowance for white of appellation Chambolle. Consequently, wine from the now 10-14 year old vines will continue to be labeled “Bourgogne” until such time as cellar master Francois Millet and director Jean-Luc Pepin deem that the wine has reached grand cru stature. Meanwhile, the ex-cellar price of this rarity continues to ascend, but so does its depth and complexity. Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770 and a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93