2009 Domaine Dujac Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru

The 2009 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru is the first vintage that really expresses the character of the vineyard on the nose: greater delineation and mineralité, more penetration and authority thanks to its intense red cherry, crushed strawberry and cranberry scents that soar from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins; fleshy and sensual for Aux Malconsorts, perhaps more plush and rounded than expected yet still beautifully balanced. It has a tender, refined and lightly spiced finish with a dash of white pepper on the aftertaste. This represents the first “serious” Aux Malconsorts from la famille Seysses. Tasted at Flint Wines's Domaine Dujac tasting in London. (NM)

The 2009 Vosne-Romanee Aux Malconsorts comes across as quite cool and introspective. Ultimately that is a great sign for readers who plan on cellaring the wine. Today the Malconsorts is totally closed in on itself. It shows little of the exuberance it did from barrel. Still, from time to time the wine reveals hints of its brilliance and pedigree. The Malconsorts should be dazzling in another few years. Opening a bottle now is only going to be an academic exercise. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. My tasting at Dujac was one of the highlights of the two weeks I spent in Burgundy in late November/early December 2011. I tasted through all the 2010s in barrel and 2009s in bottle. The domaine’s 2009s are among the wines of the vintage. Importers: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724; Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500