2000 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Cuvée Cathelin

Chave’s 2000 Cuvée Cathelin was monumental. It was a privilege to taste, but also a shame to open so early. If the 1991 seemed young, the 2000 came across as a veritable new-born.

Surprisingly, there will be about 200 cases produced of a 2000 Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin. Based on earlier visits, I thought this cuvee would not be produced again as the Chaves were embarrassed by all the attention previous offerings received. However, they will continue to produce it as long as it does not detract from their classic cuvee. The Cuvee Cathelin displays more new oak than the regular bottling as well as firmer tannin, yet also great length, palate presence, and structure. Boasting a chocolatey, blackberry nose, huge intensity, and super elegance and finesse, it will require 5-6 years of cellaring. Qualitatively, it is no better than its sibling, but does possess additional structure and new oak characteristics. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2040. This family-run estate continues to go from strength to strength, with the father and son (Gerard and Jean-Louis) team pushing all the right buttons to achieve success at all quality levels. Jean-Louis Chave is responsible for several negociant wines. Importers: Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800 and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

(this has been in a stainless steel tank since September) Bright saturated ruby. Aromas of cassis, black cherry, pepper and spices, with a hint of exotic fruits. Silky and seamless but also primary and precise, with a great lightness of touch. Utterly spherical wine, like Romanee-Conti to the basic bottling's La Tache. Wonderfully subtle and extremely long on the aftertaste, with the expanding flavors maintaining near-magical focus. Interestingly, the regular 2000 is more open today despite the fact that it was recently bottled.