2007 Dönnhoff Felsenturmchen Riesling Spätlese

Donnhoff's 2007 Riesling Spatlese Felsenturmchen once again reflects a particular (cooler, stonier) portion of the Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg high up and well back from the Nahe. Gentian, red currant, citrus oils, and a whiff of smoke in the nose usher in a rich, sappy, subtly creamy yet tremendously refreshing palate in which tropical mango and citrus meet Northern European red currant. A lick of salt adds invigoration to the long finish. This misses the dazzling complexity and subtlety of the Krotenpfuhl or the ethereal florality of the Kirschheck, but it is built to last, and over the next two decades I am sure there will be times when it overtakes them not to mention overwhelms those lucky enough to have cellared some with its beauty. While Donnhoff returned to his usual humility in characterizing the latest vintage - following an atypically unabashed outbreak of enthusiasm in describing his indeed amazing collection of 2006s - it is clear that the 2007s delight him in a similar way, as outstanding representations of their respective sites at Spatlese ripeness. (Note, incidentally, that the Pradikat has been removed from any dry wines here, in keeping with a new convention of the Nahe branch of the VDP growers- association.) -Within that range of ripeness,- he submits, -one best-recognizes the site. Here you have nothing exaggerated, but instead a normal harvest, meaning a documentation of the vineyards, each a different face on the landscape. They all went to the same school and had the same opportunities- he adds, gesturing to the long row of Spatlesen on the tasting table, and alluding to his own role as well as the vintage-s. -It was a bit intimidating this year at harvest,- he added, -because when the grapes are perfect, you can only make mistakes.- I had the rare fortune to taste this collection twice, and like so many 2007s (a comment that even more growers made about their 2008s) the wines were much more impressive in September than in Spring. A 2007 Hermannshohle Trockenbeerenauslese, by the way, is still trying to become wine after two years. Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300