2010 Château Smith Haut Lafitte***

Has the structure and power of 2009, but with a far greater nuance of secondary flavours running through the palate. Thoroughly impressive wine, and one that clearly has many decades ahead. These are carved black fruits, precise tannins, crayon and pencil lead, very much powerful Cabernet Sauvignon, sleek, confident, deeper in colour than the 2015 and 2016 vintages, almost certainly reflecting winemaking choices at the time. This is the vintage for me that signals the arrival of the Smith Haut Lafitte as a global force. 90% new oak, Fabien Teitgen technical director, Florence and Daniel Cathiard owners.

Deep, lustrous blackish crimson. Opulently ripe fruit with well-managed tannins almost in the background now. Savoury and vibrant fruit on the palate and great balance. Drinking well already with no sign of excessive chewiness. Glossy and appealing. (JR)

A tour de force from Pessac-Leognan, the 2010 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte matches the 2009 in terms of quality but possesses a more dense, powerful, compact style. Absolutely heavenly aromatics of blackcurrants, cassis, smoked tobacco, scorched earth, and truffle all define the aromatics, and it takes air to show at its best today. With full-bodied richness, massive concentration, and building tannins, it's flawless balanced, has an insane level of purity, and incredible length on the finish. This brilliant, brilliant Graves will evolve gracefully for another 40+ years, although it's insanely good today. Don't miss it.