2009 Domaine Pousse d'Or Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru

The 2009 Corton Clos du Roi reveals superb aromatic complexity and delineation, with expressive floral scents that are woven into the fruit. This is intense and powerful, but also marvelously elegant. It is a wine for those who can afford to be patient. The higher altitude of this site helped preserve a measure of freshness, which was quite welcome in 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2029-2049. This is a stunning set of wines from Patrick Landager. The vintage yielded a set of super-sized, big wines that may shock some readers for their sheer intensity. These are among some of the most backward 2009s I tasted and will require considerable patience. The estate now farms a total of 19 hectares, which includes the vineyards Landager acquired when he bought Domaine Moine-Hudelot a few years back. In 2009 Landager started harvesting on September 22, when most people were already finished picking. Cuvaison started with 5-6 days of cold maceration and lasted a total of three weeks with one punchdown in the morning and a second in the afternoon. The wines spent 12-15 months in oak (roughly 30% new) on their fine lees with no rackings until they were prepared for bottling, which took place with no fining or filtration. (Note: the Chambolle saw 50% new oak). All of the 2009s were bottled in early February 2010. Importers: North Berkeley Wine, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880; a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

Bright deep ruby-red. Wild, very ripe, soil-driven aromas of kirsch, licorice, minerals, mocha and espresso. Large-scaled, chewy and rich, with very ripe flavors of plum, black cherry and torrefaction saturating the palate. Finishes with huge but ripe and noble tannins that reach the front teeth and terrific length. This will need at least five years of bottle aging. The percentage of new oak used for this cuvee is now down to 40%.