2017 Dr H. Thanisch (Erben-Thanisch) Berncasteler Doctor Grosses Gewachs GG

The nose here really leans into those sweaty, musky, downright animalistic notes that are often part of a Doctor Riesling’s complexity. Behind that come scents of passion fruit and very ripe grapefruit. At 13.5% alcohol, this is hefty but avoids outright heaviness. The palate combines a slightly decadent (to that extent also Doctor-typical) sense of ripeness with a welcome bit of citric juiciness and a zesty stimulation that, like a hint of smokiness, is accentuated by some finishing heat. Ultimately, there is still a modicum of refreshment to be derived here, thanks to the stock of primary juiciness that most recent Thanisch Doctor Rieslings share. Worried that its alcohol might catch up with it, I am sinning on the side of caution in my suggested window for drinking.