2011 Domaine Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie La Belle Helene

Deep ruby. Ripe cherry and dark berry scents are sharpened and lifted by allspice and fresh flowers. Fleshy and broad but surprisingly lithe, offering spicy dark berry flavors and a touch of licorice. Plush, seamless and appealingly sweet on the finish, which features velvety tannins and a persistent black raspberry quality.

Even better (yet we split hairs here), the 2011 Cote Rotie La Belle Helene, which comes all from the Cote Rozier lieu-dit, possesses a liquid rock-like minerality to go with notions of black raspberry, smoked meat, graphite, black olive and underbrush. The most masculine, firm and concentrated in the lineup, it has full-bodied richness, rocking concentration and masses of ultra-fine tannin that build on the palate. It’s approachable now due to the overall quality of the fruit and tannin, yet it will be better in another couple of years, and drink well for two decades. (Not yet released) One of the next generation of winemakers to come up through the ranks by working with his father, the young, yet talented, Stephane Ogier (who is one of the youngest vignerons in the appellation) has been fully in control at this brilliant estate since around 2003. Covering roughly 7 acres in Cote Rotie, there are new plantings just now coming on line, both in Cote Rotie and in the surrounding regions as well. In addition, they are in the process of building a completely new cellar located on the western edge of Ampuis. There’s lots going on here, and if you’re a young wine lover today, count yourself lucky that there are young vignerons of this caliber out there. Looking at the 2011s, these show slightly more linear profiles than the 2012s, yet both vintages possess fantastic purity of fruit and overall elegant profiles. Robert Kacher Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 239-1275

Even better (yet we split hairs here), the 2011 Cote Rotie La Belle Helene, which comes all from the Cote Rozier lieu-dit, possesses a liquid rock-like minerality to go with notions of black raspberry, smoked meat, graphite, black olive and underbrush. The most masculine, firm and concentrated in the lineup, it has full-bodied richness, rocking concentration and masses of ultra-fine tannin that build on the palate. It’s approachable now due to the overall quality of the fruit and tannin, yet it will be better in another couple of years, and drink well for two decades. Dec 2013, www.robertparker.com