2006 Dominique Laurent Bonnes Mares Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

Laurent's 2006 Bonnes Mares Vieilles Vignes represents as usual three barrels from the same grower with whom he has worked for years, from vines next to de Vogue's and exceedingly tiny-berried that he claims are 90 years old. Black raspberry preserves and distillate, cumin, cardamom, roasted game, iris, violet, and decadent forest detritus kaleidoscopically fill the nose and spark the imagination. In the mouth, this displays a tenderness not only of texture but of touch that is at odds with the usually headstrong, penetrating, even savage behavior of wine from Bonnes Mares. This example is, in Laurent's words, "more Chambolle." The intertwining of floral, darkly-fruited and -earthy, spicy elements on a soothing yet stimulating finish is irresistible. An amazing variation on its cru as well as a superb example of distinctively 2006 vintage virtues, this should be worth following for at least 12-15 years. Laurent relates that this wine reduced all the way to stinky mercaptan but still – true to his habits and trusting in his intuitions; the wine's potential; and his "magic" barrels – he refused to rack it until just before bottling (but then, twice). Dominique Laurent – whose methodology I attempted to clarify in a bit more detail in my report for issue 171 – purchased fewer wines in 2006 (not all of which I tasted) than he had in 2005, particularly at the lower end of the classificatory spectrum and in the Cote de Beaune. On the other hand, there were some correspondingly sweet opportunities, he noted, to expand acquisitions in top-notch crus due to initial hesitation of many negociants to buy heavily into this vintage. Laurent was highly enthusiastic about the quality of the wines he did raise, which in the glass often proved even more infectious than his enthusiasm – and that's saying something! What's more, although these wines – generally produced in 50-250 case quantities – have a reputation for high prices, most of these 2006s – especially in their upper-echelons – strike me as exhibiting excellent price:quality rapport. While absence of chaptalization and absence of sulfur during the elevage remain constant features this year, less of the wine Laurent purchased and raised from 2006 was vinified with stems than in most years. Vieilles Vignes," incidentally, is used like a brand name chez Laurent, referring to all of his better wines, whereas his "Tradition" line – none of which I tasted – consists of cuvees rendered in slightly larger volumes and exclusively for the French market. Since the words "Vieilles Vignes" are prominently displayed on the label, I have included them as part of each wine's description, although one will often see Laurent's same top wines referred to without that designation. Imported by Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY Tel. (516) 327-0808