2009 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape

(80% grenache, with mourvedre, syrah and cinsault): Dark ruby. Exotically perfumed, expressive scents of candied cherry, blackberry and spicecake, with notes of anise and rose adding complexity. Shows deeper cassis and blueberry flavors on the palate, along with a zesty mineral quality. Fine-grained tannins add shape and grip to the very long, sappy, focused finish. This wine has gained vivacity since I saw it last year.

The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape is probably one of the strongest “regular” efforts I have ever tasted from Sabon. This dense purple blend of 75 to 80% Grenache and the rest Mourvedre and Syrah, aged in truncated wood cuves and foudres, has a beautiful, sweet nose of black cherry jam intermixed with roasted herbs, black currants, forest floor and a hint of charcoal. The wine has great intensity, full-bodied opulence, and a striking seductiveness that is already irresistible. It should continue to drink well for 12-15 years. This impeccably run estate, in the capable hands of Christophe Sabon, his sister Isabelle, and their father, is one of the superstars of the southern Rhone Valley. Over the last 12-15 years, the quality of the wines has gone from strength to strength, with brilliant wines being produced in all price categories. They make sumptuous, complex, world-class red, white and rose Cotes du Rhones, and year-in and year-out, their Chateauneuf du Papes are among the top three or four wines of the vintage. Tasting two great vintages (2009 and 2010) from the Sabons was one of the most thrilling tastings I have had this year. My tasting began with some unbelievable Cotes du Rhones. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

A brilliant bottle of wine (the best base cuvee out there?), the 2009 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a mostly destemmed blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre that’s aged 80% in vat, and 20% in 1/3 new French oak. It delivers straight-up gorgeous aromas of blackberry and raspberry jam, creamy licorice, spice, and underbrush to go with a full-bodied, awesomely textured and yet focused palate. This beautifully fresh, balanced Châteauneuf-du-Pape is well built and loaded with sweet tannin on the finish; while approachable now due to the wealth of fruit, it should age effortlessly for 15+ years.