2017 Giaconda Chardonnay Victoria

A young and tightly focused wine of exceptional density, the 2017 is an absolute powerhouse. A banger. Youthfully tight, the oak imprint is a little raw at this stage, but that will come back into balance in time. Granitic minerality provides depth. This is so good. Time will tell how high this will climb.

Tasted beside two stylistic extremes: the rambunctious 2019 and the sleeper 2018, this 2017 Chardonnay is the balancing act between the two. While less immediately exciting in terms of stars and lights, this forsakes the pinwheels of flavor of the other two for a patient, steady, powerful outlay across the palate. It never stops. It is restrained, classy, elegant and layered, but those descriptors undersell it—they don't do the wine justice. There's struck match and preserved lemon rind on the nose, and the palate is thick with salted stone fruit, crushed rocks, campfire embers, green tea and star anise. I'm relatively speechless after tasting three vintages of this wine side by side and can only say respectfully, that we are in the presence of greatness. Hush. It's New World Chardonnay at its absolute peak.

Glistening yellow. Aromas of peach nectar, pear skin, Meyer lemon and toasty lees, plus fennel, jasmine and oyster shell notes in the background. Chewy and tightly focused, offering intense citrus and orchard fruit flavors and suggestions of chamomile, buttered toast and vanilla. Finishes smoky, gently chewy and very long, with floral and mineral notes lingering.