2004 Cloudy Bay - Sauvignon Blanc Te Koko

The 2004 Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc underwent complete malo and was matured in 5- to 6-year-old barrels using 10% new oak. A distinctive nose of lemon, pineapple and beeswax, the palate is medium-bodied with pineapple, apricot and lemon curd. Certainly an intriguing wine, I found this lacks the definition of similarly produced Sauvignon Blancs say from Dog Point, although it does grow on you. Interestingly the older vintage, the 2001 Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc seemed a little fresher on the nose with attractive notes of dried apricot, quince and hazelnut, perhaps it befits four or five years cellaring. Cloudy Bay needs no introduction: unquestionably the winery that put New Zealand on the international map and presciently understood the aesthetic appeal of an emotive label. Now part of the LVMH portfolio, the winery is a magnet for visitors to Marlborough. They farm around 200 hectares of vines in the Wairau Valley, Renwick and Omaka Valleys augmented by five grape-growers under long-term contracts. Of course historical significance bears nothing upon my evaluation and whilst there is nothing particularly wrong with Cloudy Bay’s range, they lacked the thrills and perhaps the soul of other New Zealand wines that I encountered, as if the wines err on the side of caution in order not to imperil its worldwide reputation. In essence, I would like to see less of “Cloudy Bay” the brand and more of Kevin Judd, the talented winemaker. Importer: Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200