2010 Kistler Chardonnay Dutton Ranch

Bright yellow-gold. Poached pear, floral honey and white flowers on the smoky highly perfumed nose, with an intense mineral overtone adding vivacity. Sappy, palate-staining orchard and citrus fruit flavors are braced by zesty minerality, which adds cut and focus. Clings with impressive tenacity on the finish, leaving behind notes of candied lemon and dusty minerals.

Kistler’s 2010 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch shows the distinct influence of these sandstone-rich soils in its weightless, effortless, perfumed personality. A model of true elegance and finesse, the Dutton Ranch is less obvious than some of the preceding wines. A kick of bracing salinity in the finish gives the 2010 its sense of energy and pure grace. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although I currently have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in their lowest crop loads in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact on how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren’t quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling. Tel. (707) 823-5603