2009 Du MOL Pinot Noir Estate

The 2009 Pinot Noir Estate is another big, textured wine. It possesses stunning depth and richness from start to finish. Dark red berries, flowers, leather and licorice come together beautifully in this seamless, inviting wine. Cinnamon, exotic spices and star anise develop in the glass, adding further dimensions of complexity. This big boy needs time. The Estate is made from a young, high-density vineyard planted just five years ago with Calera, Swan and Pommard clones.

The 2009 Pinot Noir Estate is another big, textured wine. It possesses stunning depth and richness from start to finish. Dark red berries, flowers, leather and licorice come together beautifully in this seamless, inviting wine. Cinnamon, exotic spices and star anise develop in the glass, adding further dimensions of complexity. This big boy needs time. The Estate is made from a young, high-density vineyard planted just five years ago with Calera, Swan and Pommard clones. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This is a very strong set of wines from DuMOL and winemaker Andy Smith. Like so many producers, DuMOL is in the midst of a stylistic shift that began around 2005. Smith described some of the estate’s earlier wines as a bit too heavy. Today’s approach emphasizes picking a bit earlier than in the past and places greater emphasis on complexity, structure and acidity. At times, the malolactic fermentations are blocked. The Chardonnays are barrel fermented and aged in oak (50% new) with all of their lees, but there is no stirring of the lees. Tel. (925) 254-8922; www.dumol.com