1998 Château Croix de Labrie

Proprietor Puzio's production (125 cases) from this tiny parcel is so small that it is called un vin de salon. This is terrific stuff! An opaque purple color is accompanied by aromas of roasted meat, black fruits, spicy oak, and coffee. The wine displays supple tannin, explosive richness, immense body, and beautifully integrated acidity as well as tannin. What a shame there are not 5,000 cases of this blockbuster effort. Anticipated maturity: now-2014.

Opaque ruby-purple. Blackberry and violet aromas. Very concentrated and rich, with superb middle-palate sweetness and depth. Flavors of dark chocolate and mint. Really voluptuous merlot but with underlying backbone. Finishes very long, with extremely suave, harmonious tannins. A wine to watch-for those who can find it in the first place.