2009 Jim Barry Shiraz The Armagh

At 13 years old the texture has become creamy, with smoked caramel and clear oak impact even now, although well integrated and welcoming. Whispers of apricot, stone fruit and fragrant rosebud gives lift to the rich creme de cassis puree, tar, liquorice, blackberry jam that makes this such a voluptous wine, almost pushing into the overripe territory. Ready to go, plenty to enjoy. 100% new oak, a mix of both American and French oak.

Dark purple. A hugely aromatic, complex bouquet evokes ripe black and blue fruits, cola, candied licorice, mocha and incense, with a smoky mineral quality adding vivacity and focus. Stains the palate with rich blueberry and cherry liqueur flavors lifted by juicy acidity. Hints of candied flowers, fruitcake and dark chocolate gain strength in the glass and carry through an extremely long, smooth, subtly tannic finish. In a decadent but shockingly lively style, with the sheer mass of assertive fruit to make it accessible on the younger side with some decanter time but also the concentration to reward long-term cellaring.

This unashamedly big but balanced 2009 Shiraz The Armagh is full-throttle from the get-go, with brawny blackberry, black olive and mulberry fruits laced with ironstone and red earth. The 100% new French and American oak is perfectly at home here. A big upfront hit of flavor follows before mellowing into chocolate- and licorice-accented richness. The 2009 is close to peak but sure to hold for some time to come.