2002 Dönnhoff Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Spätlese

This Spatlese is extraordinary, hovering in that zone bordering perfection in which wines touch the soul. Medium-bodied and revealing scents reminiscent of sweet scallions, cassis, spices, and fresh herbs, the 2002 Riesling Spatlese Schlossbockelheimer Kupfergrube conquers the taster with ethereal waves of black currants, apples, minerals, baby powder, and pears. Satin-textured, as pure as crystal, and lasting over a minute on the palate, it is a masterpiece to drink with reverence between 2009-2030. All Hail the King of Spatlese! Donnhoff’s line-up of Spatlesen is second to none. For the second year in a row, Helmut Donnhoff has left me shaking my head in wonder. Having tasted the greatest wines in the world, year in and year out, as a wine merchant and as a critic, did not prepare me for the awe-inspiring experience of tasting through Donnhoff’s 2001s and 2002s. They are magical, emotional, breath-taking. My words cannot do them justice. (PR)

Fresh apple, lemon and subtly woodsy notes in the nose. Elegant and delicate in palate impression, suggesting creaminess. Wet stone, smoke and brown spices waft through a diaphanous curtain of fruit. Very long and thought-provoking, if restrained. One thought is it's not yet showing half of what it has in reserve. Potential 2 stars.