2005 Domaine Arlaud Père & Fils Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru

A slightly more elegant but equally reserved nose of ripe dark berry fruit, cassis, warm earth and a hint of the sauvage complements perfectly the impressively concentrated flavors that are blessed with copious amounts of black cherry extract that almost completely buffers the underlying structure. This is balanced, long and serious with a brooding character at present but the superb quality of the raw material is undeniable. Don't miss it if you can find it as it's one of those "wow" wines.

Unfortunately, there are only three barrels (i.e. 75 cases) of the Arlaud 2005 Clos St.-Denis, which boasts a nose of black raspberry, rhubarb, woodsy earthiness, and high-toned distilled herbal suggestions including lavender and catnip. Formidably dense and youthfully severe in tannins on the palate, this finishes with impressive underlying stoniness, palate-staining – almost savage – raw berry concentration, deep penetration, and sheer grip. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93.