2018 Keller Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewachs

Reminiscent of a lemon drizzle cake ,straight out of the oven, with lemon curd plastered on top in abundance. A very structured and very powerful palate follows with a clear sensation of chewy tannins — yes, on a white! — and outstandingly compressed citrus fruit. Drink now or hold.

Scents of white peach, greengage, grapefruit and lemon are already strongly marked by their pits and peels. These are accompanied by high-toned evocations of mint and a whiff of chalk dust. Yet the polished palate delivers succulent fruitiness that’s unusual for a Riesling of the Grosses Gewächs genre, even though combined with invigorating zest, piquancy and tartness. Mint returns in the impressively sustained finish for a delightfully cooling influence that, along with sheer juiciness, complements chalkiness and counteracts any tendency of fruit pits and citrus zests toward bitterness. This strikes me as an unusually expressive Hubacker, not to mention an unusually forward, generously fruited (albeit also piquant and chalky) Grosses Gewächs.

I really wasn’t ready to move on to this after the Kirchspiel. Slightly deeper gold than the Kirchspiel and so different in fruit profile. Smells richer and riper, the fruits ranging from golden plum through apricot and bitter orange. Spicy too, golden and savoury in character. On the palate, it surprises by the extreme freshness – not what I expected after the breadth and oily ripeness on the nose. Even so the balance is perfect – a miracle to get this fruit character together with this intense freshness. Mouth-watering, super-concentrated, bolder than the Kirchspiel but balanced in its more muscular components. (JH)