2018 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Meursault Clos des Ecoles

The 2018 Meursault Clos des Ecole has a light grapefruit and melon bouquet that needs more Meursault DNA to show through. The palate is medium-bodied with grapefruit and apricot on the entry, though I am seeking more tension on the finish.

The 2018 Meursault Clos des Ecoles had just been sulfured when I tasted it, but the wine was still showing well—indeed, it had likely picked up some extra definition as a result—displaying aromas of pear, white flowers, citrus oil and warm bread, followed by a medium to full-bodied, enveloping and fleshy palate that's fresh and lively. Charles Van Canneyt has surpassed himself with the 2018 vintage, producing a set of wines that rivals his 2016s and 2015s as his finest to date. Deep, textural and incipiently complex, these are powerful but elegant wines that display a sense of energy and dynamism that some of the year's reds lack. Followers of Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat will be familiar with Van Canneyt's approach in the cuverie and cellar: The predominantly destemmed fruit, retained intact, is fermented in cement tanks for a classical maceration of two to three weeks. Élevage is in barrels emphasizing François Frères, with Cavin in a supporting role, and lasts fully 18 months with the exception of the Bourgogne Rouge, bottled before harvest. These in essence uncomplicated methods, combined with an enviable palette of appellations planted with notably old vines, produce elegant, charming wines with impressive substance and aging potential. I've been buying them for my own cellar since my student days, so this is an address I warmly recommend.

The aroma just draws you in instantly with a lightly dusty overlay on bright, fresh citrus. Lovely freshness on the palate too, a touch chalky and very precise. (JH)