NV Lilbert-Fils Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Perle

Disgorged in April 2024 with a dosage of three grams per liter, Lilbert’s NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Perle is crafted from a third of 2019 and a third of 2018, complemented by a perpetual blend initiated in the 1980s. Just like Bertrand Lilbert’s regular NV Blanc de Blancs, it is heavily based on Cramant, with the remainder coming from Chouilly and Oiry. However, it spends a year longer on the fine lees in tank and is then made with a lower-pressure than traditional Champagnes, delivering four atmospheres instead of the standard six, by adding a solution with just 16 grams of sugar per liter instead of 24, as four grams of sugar per liter produces one atmosphere of pressure. Opening in the glass with scents of hazelnut, honeysuckle, smoke and brioche, it is more generously structured and vinous than the regular non-vintage cuvée, informed by the quality and personality of the base vintages.

The NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Perle offers lovely creaminess, soft contours and impeccable balance. Lemon confit, dried flowers and almonds, along with the wine's open-knit personality, give Perle much of its immediacy and pure appeal. Understated and polished, the Perle is all class. The current release is a blend of 30% 2011, 40% 2010 and 30% 2009, bottled with 5 grams of dosage. Disgorged: Summer 2015.

The label looks rather downmarket but it tastes delightfully delight and transparent. Filigree even. But the fruit doesn’t seem quite as sparkling fresh as it might do. (JR)