2005 Littorai Pinot Noir The Haven

(from a vineyard west of Occidental owned by Ted and Heidi Lemon; just the third crop, from vines planted in 2001) Bright, dark red-ruby. Musky, complex aromas of raspberry, pine needles and citric fruits; distinctly wild. Silky and seamless on entry, then quite plump in the middle, without quite the complexity of the best 2005 pinots from this address. But this is impressively thick and fat for a pinot from such young vines. The finish initially seems a bit dried by acidity, but then expands nicely and gains in sweetness with aeration.