1962 Château Cheval Blanc

The 1962 Cheval Blanc has never really captivated me as much as I would expect, though this is definitely the best that I have had. It has a very classically styled nose with touches of black fruit, leather, aniseed and the interior of a stately home with all those warped floorboards and wainscoting. The palate is very cohesive and a bit rustic, with hints of hickory infusing the red fruit and showing some dryness toward the finish. Yes, there is something a little muscular about this Cheval Blanc, but there is also something stately. Tasted at "Koala's" Bordeaux dinner in Hong Kong.

The 1962 Cheval Blanc has always left me wanting more. As I have commented previously, it might be excused by coming from younger vines, but then so did the superior 1959. The bouquet is animally and feral, missing some cohesion and fruit intensity. The palate is medium-bodied and linear, unapologetically conservative for a Cheval Blanc, with an attenuated finish that suggests only large formats with perfect provenance are worth keeping longer. Tasted at a private lunch in Hong Kong.

Average temperature and dry summer. Not a wine for long ageing. 26 Sep – 16 Oct. Quite late picking. 32 hl/ha. Dark crimson and paler than the 1964. Slightly funkier and less alive and energetic than the 1964. A little bit dusty on the finish. Just a bit simple and without much left to give, Quite acidic. (JR)