2001 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Vigneto Brich Ronchi

The multi-dimensional 2001 Barbaresco Bric Ronchi, a saturated ruby, is soft and round, offering sensations of toasted oak, vanilla, ripe red fruits, macerated cherries, minerals and menthol with excellent length, and great freshness on the finish. Made from vines averaging 50-60 years and aged in barrique. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

(aged entirely in barriques, 80% new) Bright, deep red. Higher-pitched aromas of raspberry, redcurrant and baking spices. Then juicy but rather austere in the mouth; a bit youthfully clenched and not particularly sweet for a barrique wine. Finishes long and brisk but a bit tough, with rather pronounced wood tannins. Less suave than the Loreto. Perhaps in an awkward stage today. (Rocca told me he has found an Austrian barrelmaker called Stockinger who makes 20-hectoliter oak casks; beginning with the 2003 vintage, 20% of the Ronchi will be aged in these barrels.)

(aged in 60% new barriques) Saturated medium ruby color. Sappy aromas of black cherry and currant. Sweet, rich and chewy, with terrific depth of fruit and texture. Perhaps a bit international in style, but a wine of compelling richness. Finishes with big, broad, very fine tannins.