2013 Jean-Luc & Eric Burguet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Favorites Vieilles Vignes

From a producer with a rich house style, this combines very old vines aged 80 –1 00 years old and ripe, late-picked grapes in a cool vintage. Transparent garnet with a pale rim. Subtle nose and very delicate build. Fine tannins and a certain amount of welcome earthiness. A relatively light Gevrey. Well bought. (JR)

Good medium red. Slightly high-toned aromas of dark cherry, menthol, leather and game, lifted by a spicy element. Fatter, richer, sweeter and deeper than the Symphonie, and more complex too as the older vines here have deeper roots. Quite broad and full for village wine. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins and surprising acidity. Long on personality, but will it maintain its fruit until the tannins are absorbed? These vines were harvested between October 12 and 14, according to Jean-Luc Burguet.

A deeper, darker and more muscular expression of Gevrey emerges from Burguet's old vine 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Favorites Vieilles Vignes. Dark cherry, plum smoke and licorice meld together in a pliant, expressive Gevrey with gorgeous underlying energy, power and overall tension. This is a strong showing from the Favorites.