2005 Domaine Bertagna Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Murgers 1er Cru

A 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Murgers exhibited more of a cooked fruit (cherry, blackberry) impression than typical for this vintage, with lovely high-toned notes of ginger, cardamom, and pit fruit distillate. In the mouth, rich black fruits gain support rather than interference from an abundance of fine tannin, and the wine finishes with a touch of austerity but clear fruit character and impressive length. It might be a few years before one really knows what further complexities are lurking in this well-structured wine. Christophe Vial has move here from de Montille to become the cellarmaster, but oenologist Claire Forestier was responsible for these 2005s. I hope I shall prove to have hit them on a bad day. But abstracting from possible (in some instances obvious) effects of having just been racked to tank and sulfured in preparation for bottling, I found many of these wines lacking in striking personalities or grip. Some evinced toasty hints of barrel despite the percentage of new wood being low (only rising above 20-30% in the case of Chambertin) suggesting that they might be a bit “underwined.” Also recommended: 2005 Hautes-Cotes de Nuits ($ 28.00-20.00; 84), 2005 Vougeot ($65.00-70.00; 85), 2005 Vougeot Les Petits Vougeot ($95.00-100.00; 85-87) 2005 Vougeot Les Cras ($95.00-100.00; 85-87+?), 2005 Vougeot Clos de la Perriere ($110.00-115.00; 85-87+?), 2005 Chambolle-Musigny ($65.00-70.00; 85-87), Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.

Good red-ruby color. Sappy, expressive aromas of black and red cherry and flowers. Rich, spicy and floral, with a tangy, sappy character. This, too, is classically dry in style, but here there's much more depth of flavor and the substantial ripe tannins show good sweetness. An excellent showing.