2001 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc

I tasted component parts of the 2001 Hermitage blanc. Aromas of acacia flowers, honeysuckle, and citrus were followed by a medium to full-bodied white with loads of glycerin as well as heady fruit and alcohol. Elegant, medium to full-bodied, and crisper, it is more obviously backward than the 2000. This family-run estate continues to go from strength to strength, with the father and son (Gerard and Jean-Louis) team pushing all the right buttons to achieve success at all quality levels. Jean-Louis Chave is responsible for several negociant wines. Importers: Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800 and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

From Rocoules: Musky citrus and mineral aromas of noteworthy vivacity. Then rich and fat in the mouth, with considerable volume. From Peleat: Lemon and mandarin orange on the nose. Intense flavor of pineapple, slightly hardened by the CO2 From Maison Blanche (in stainless steel, like the last couple of samples): Exotic aromas of mirabelle and white flowers. Fresh and juicy but also chewy, even powerful. A bit more raw in the mouth, with a liqueur-like ripeness. From L'Hermite, in barrel: Hazelnut and spicy oak dominate the nose. Juicy, fruity and quite dry, with a tight supporting mineral structure. A rather uncompromising sample. L'Hermite contributes backbone to the blend.