1998 Elisabeth Legrand (Hubert Lignier) - Clos de la Roche

Deep ruby. A beguiling and still almost completely primary nose that displays a touch of extraction along with spicy, pure and deeply pitched red and black pinot fruit aromas nuanced by smoke, underbrush and a very subtle animale quality. The big, muscular and dense flavors that still firm with solid but not aggressive tannins and the barest hints of astringency on the long finish. This is obviously very classy juice with plenty of punch and at the pace this is evolving, it may need longer than the time frame I am suggesting. In sum, this is a really lovely effort that drinks best with food today but in 5 to 7 years, it will drink well with or without accompaniment. (Drink starting 2010)