2002 Louis Jadot Musigny Grand Cru

Good full deep red. Superripe, almost candied aromas of blackberry, violet and bitter chocolate. Dense, silky and sweet but also juicy and light on its feet, with uncanny purity and delineation of flavor. The black fruit and dark chocolate flavors are joined by flowers and blood orange on the back half of this wine, which finishes with uncanny lift and grip and great persistence.

Sadly, Jadot only produces tiny amounts of Musigny, but those lucky enough to secure some of the 2002 will be enthralled. Its boisterous aromas greet the nose with flowers, spices, raspberries, and cherries. On the palate, this medium to full-bodied effort is coiled, waiting to strike. Cloves, sweet red fruits, candied blackberries, violets, and roses can be discerned in its tightly wound personality. A wine of power and harmony, it is chewy textured, dense and has a firm structure that demands cellaring. Projected maturity: 2010-2024. Bravo! Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300

Deep red-ruby. Wonderfully ripe, deep nose combines raspberry, blood orange and enticing oak scents. Rich, suave, round and compellingly sweet; at once powerful and seamless. Like a bon-bon in the mouth, and further sweetened by high-quality oak. A great wine in the making. But a bit less austere and gripping today than the Bonnes-Mares or Clos de Beze, suggesting that it will approach peak drinkability earlier (say eight years from now, vs. a solid decade for the other two bottlings).