2021 Descendientes de J. Palacios La Faraona

The 2021 La Faraona is expressive and aromatic, with notes of Mediterranean herbs and hints of grains and cereals, quite complex, developing notes of star aniseed and fennel. Like all of the 2021s, this is extremely elegant. Ricardo Pérez Palacios told me that they are achieving the balance in the vineyard; the wine is crunchy, and the tannins and the acidity combined give a sense of freshness above what the pH or the pure acidity might suggest. There is a little more juiciness, a little more depth. This is a very extreme vineyard, and in 2021, they did a big selection because it was a challenging year; they harvested over four tries and produced three separate vats, and finally only one was selected. He compared it to the 2015 that has a little more volume and is slightly riper. They only produced two barrels that resulted in 647 bottles, 19 magnums, five double magnums and four Jeroboams. It was bottled in December 2022.

100% Mencía. Aged for 11 months in bocoy (600-litre demi-muid). First vintage 2001. Darker fruit than their Lamas and Moncerbal, and there's reductive rubbery character too. Cherry fruit, super-fine tannins, finishes with very light sourness. (RH)

The 2021 La Faraona (El Ferro) is 94% Mencía and 6% white varieties planted on the hillside in Corullón, Bierzo. The whites undergo a 48-day maceration with a submerged cap. The 2021 opens with notes of dried roses, violets, pomegranates and elderberries, along with hints of mint and gentle aging. It has a very delicate, infusion-like texture reminiscent of fruit tea. Smooth, refined and subtly tense, the 2021 finish is compact and fine-grained. Long and layered, the 2021 truly reflects the delicacy of the vintage.