2011 Domaine Denis Mortet Chambertin Grand Cru

The 2011 Chambertin captures every bit of the potential I sensed last year. Easily one of the wines of the vintage, the Chambertin possesses both stunning delineation and richness. Blue/purplish fruit, smoke, licorice, tar and spice burst onto the palate in an intense, explosive Burgundy loaded with pedigree. Simply put, this is a dazzling effort from Arnaud Mortet.

There were 2.5 barrels of the 2011 Chambertin Grand Cru. It has a very expressive, very intense bouquet with dark-berry fruit, hints of licorice, wild mint and forest-floor that does not unfold but more explodes from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a spicy, mushroom-tinged opening. Quite masculine and structured with dry tannins on the finish, this will need several years to really harmonize and show its personality. Fine – but the 2012 is better. Importer: Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400 and Fields Morris & Verdin, Justerini & Brooks, Berry Brothers & Rudd all in the UK.

(100% new oak; just two barrels produced): Bright dark red. Knockout nose combines wild red berries, complex soil tones and mocha and smoky oak notes. Silky-sweet in the mouth, communicating superb finesse and energy. Plenty of medicinal reserve here to support extended aging. The rising, very pure, gripping finish saturates the mouth with spices and crushed stone. This was 12.2% potential alcohol, chaptalized to 13.2%. Looks to be one of the finest vintages to date for this wine chez Mortet.