2017 Franck Balthazar Cornas Chaillot

Opaque ruby. Deep-pitched, smoke- and mineral-accented black and blue fruit, olive and floral pastille aromas are complemented by a strong suggestion of exotic spices. Fleshy, concentrated and alluringly sweet, offering palate-staining, spice-tinged black currant and boysenberry flavors that tighten up on the back half. Densely packed yet lively in style, finishing with powerful mineral thrust and dusty tannins that meld steadily with the wine's potent dark fruit.

Balthazar's 2017 Cornas Chaillot—from a parcel originally planted in 1911-1913 (many vines have since been replaced)—was harvested September 5. It's cool and a bit herbal, with a delightful mix of red currants and blueberries, plus hints of crushed stone but no oak influence (it's aged only in older demi-muids). Full-bodied and silky yet firm, this combines great complexity with ripe tannins and the structure to age, then finishes long and mouthwatering. This is super stuff.

Inky ruby. Displays highly aromatic aromas of ripe black/blue fruits, incense, Indian spices, peony and a hint of olive. Densely packed and focused on the palate, offering energetic dark berry liqueur, floral pastille and salty olive flavors, a hint of smoky minerality and building spiciness. Finishes chewy, focused and extremely long, with broad tannins lending shape and gentle grip to impressively persistent dark fruit and floral flavors.