2007 Domaine Coche-Dury Meursault

The 2007 Meursault Villages from Coche-Dury is still a very taut, tight-knit wine at ten years of age and definitely needs a decant if it's to be attacked today. A bright nose of struck flint, citrus zest, pastry cream, a touch of hazelnut and a subtle framing of new oak leads into a precise, focused mid-weight Meursault with great concentration and depth. This is a tensile, almost austere wine from Jean-François Coche, but its sheer intensity is impressive.

Pale honey colour. Very matchstick nose and lots of acid and broad, ripe fruit. Already accessible. Seems almost as good as the vineyard-specific wines from this address. Really excellent. Just very slightly dry on the end but really so much better than most white burgundies. (JR)

Cork quite different from that in the 2008: 'TL' or 'JL' on the top and 'J F Coche-Dury' in capitals. (The cork on the Auxey-Duresses red is completely unmarked.) And the urn on both main and neck labels has square handles as opposed to the rounded ones on the 2008 labels. Very struck match indeed on the nose. Lots of precision and steeliness with rather attractive chalky texture on the finish. Very juicy and much fruitier than the last bottle of this I tasted. (JR)