2005 Domaine Robert Arnoux Vosne-Romanée Aux Reignots 1er Cru

Lachaux’s 2005 Vosne-Romanee Les Reignots displays aromas of black raspberry preserves and sweet brown spices, with vanilla, smoke and resin notes from the (lone, new) barrel. Effusive inner-mouth florality and continuing concentrated fruit with nutmeg and cocoa powder on the palate lead to a sultry, gentle finish that may grip more after a few week’s rest in bottle. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne (85). Pascal Lachaux (the late Robert Arnoux’s son-in-law, who has been in charge here now for nearly two decades) had just bottled his 2005 collection – vinified in his superb, recently-completed, gravity-fed facilities – when I visited. Lachaux compares the proper watchword of the winemaker in a vintage with Pinot as healthy and naturally-concentrated as in 2005, to that of a chef confronted with a perfect piece of fish: restraint. That also describes the results he has achieved in bottle, although allowance should be made for the possibility that the expression of certain wines was restrained by their recent bottling. mporter: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.